Electrical

Here is some current information about our electrical sockets,
hopefully there are no shocking revelations.

Sockets: The electrical sockets used in all of my lamps are from Grand Brass and the socket I use is their solid brass, UL Approved E26 model, with the captive ring. Other sockets snap together, the E26 model socket has a captive ring that screws the two halves together; very strong and very good.

Check out the Grand Brass site, if you would like a different type of socket, let me know. Also, if you have a specific switch requirement, we can accommodate those requests. Some people like an inline switch on the electrical cord, or a push button switch on the lamp, whatever you like.

Wiring the socket: All wires used meets current NEC standards. Wires are properly attached, with the neutral wire going to the silver connector (this connects to the screw portion of the socket) and the black, or hot wire, going to the gold connector (this is the center tab in the bottom of the socket)

You always want the neutral wire going to the screw or threaded portion of the light bulb socket, this is a basic safety requirement. When undoing a light bulb, the threaded portion of the bulb becomes exposed as you unscrew it. If you were to touch it, and it was improperly wired, you could get a shock.

I also use an Underwriter's knot between the electrical connections and the socket bottom, this prevents tension being applied to the electrical connections directly if you pull on the wire.

All wiring is tested with an electrical meter, to make sure all connections are proper and sound.